Saddle valves have been a go-to for years in the plumbing industry. But after a period of time, they become nightmares in the form of leaks and complications.
It’s about time we find a smoother solution to connecting water lines. And that’s when the saddle valve alternatives come into play.
You can use self-piercing valves, tee fittings, compression fittings, and push-fit fittings as alternatives for saddle valves because these fittings hold up the water line connection with more strength and fewer leakage issues.
Keep reading to understand how these substitutes work as saddle valves, their advantages and disadvantages, and how to install them like a pro!
Alternatives for Saddle Valves
Let’s delve into the details of how these saddle valve alternatives function:
Self-Piercing Valves
Self-piercing valves consist of a valve body with a sharp, pointed needle or piercing pin at the center. The valve body typically has threaded connections for attaching to a water supply line.
When installing a self-piercing valve, you screw it onto the water supply line at the desired location. As you tighten the valve, the sharp needle or pin punctures a hole in the pipe. Once the hole is created, turning on the valve allows water to flow through this newly created opening.
Self-piercing valves function similarly to saddle valves by creating a hole in the water supply line. However, they are often considered more reliable and less prone to leaks over time.
Pros
- Easy to install, no soldering required.
- Quick and relatively inexpensive.
- Suitable for DIYers.
Cons
- Can be less reliable and may develop leaks over time.
- Limited to specific pipe sizes.
How to Install
Materials and Tools You’ll Need
- Self-piercing valve kit
- Adjustable wrench or pliers
- Pipe cutter (if necessary)
- Tubing for the new water line
- Safety goggles
Steps
- Make sure to put on safety goggles to keep your eyes safe during the installation.
- Decide where you want the self-piercing valve. Pick a spot that’s easy to reach and free from anything blocking it.
- If your water line is plastic or copper, you don’t need to do anything special. But if it’s galvanized steel, use a pipe cutter to make it smooth where the valve will attach.
- Follow the instructions that come with your self-piercing valve kit to put the valve together. Usually, this means attaching any fittings or adapters that come with the valve.
- Put the self-piercing valve where you want it on the water line. Make sure the needle or pin lines up with the spot where you want the hole.
- Use an adjustable wrench or pliers to tighten the self-piercing valve onto the water line gently. Don’t overdo it; too much force can harm the valve or pipe.
- Keep tightening until you feel some resistance. That means the needle or pin has made a hole in the pipe. Stop turning at this point.
- Turn on the water supply and check for any leaks near the self-piercing valve. Turn off the water supply and slightly tighten the valve if you see leaks. Check for leaks again and keep doing this until it’s leak-free.
- Attach the tubing for the new water line to the end of the self-piercing valve. Secure it following the kit’s instructions, which might include using compression fittings or other parts.
- Turn the valve on so water flows through the hole you made into the new water line. Check for leaks at the connections, including where the new line meets the self-piercing valve.
- Once there are no leaks, tidy up any extra tubing and ensure everything around the self-piercing valve is in place.
Tee Fittings
Tee fittings are designed in the shape of the letter “T.” They have three openings: one for the existing water supply line, one for the new line you want to add, and one for the branch that connects the two.
To install a tee fitting, you first cut the existing water supply line at the point where you want to create a connection. The tee fitting is then soldered or brazed in place at this cut point. The branch opening allows you to attach the new water line securely.
Tee fittings provide a more permanent and secure replacement for saddle valves. They involve cutting the pipe and soldering, ensuring a reliable connection without the risk of leaks.
Pros
- Makes a strong and lasting connection.
- Works well with bigger pipes.
- Very dependable and less likely to leak.
Cons
- Needs cutting and soldering, which can be trickier.
- Might call for extra tools and skills.
How to Install
Materials and Tools You’ll Need
- Tee fitting
- Pipe cutter or hacksaw
- Emery cloth or sandpaper
- Flux and brush
- Solder
- Propane torch
- Safety goggles
- Heat-resistant gloves
- Adjustable wrench or pliers
- Bucket or cloth for water cleanup
Steps
- Before you start, put on safety goggles and heat-resistant gloves to keep your eyes and hands safe.
- First, find the main water valve and turn it off to stop the water. Then, open a faucet to let out any leftover water pressure.
- Next, locate the place on the water pipe where you want to add the tee fitting. Make sure it’s easy to reach and clear of any obstacles.
- Measure the distance between the existing pipe and where you’ll connect the new branch. Mark this length on the pipe.
- Use a pipe cutter or hacksaw to make a clean, straight cut where you marked.
- Smooth out any rough edges on the cut pipe with emery cloth or sandpaper. This helps ensure a snug and secure fit.
- Apply flux to the outside of the pipe ends and the inside of the tee fitting. Flux helps the solder flow and creates a strong bond.
- Slide the tee fitting onto the existing water supply line, making sure the branch opening points in the direction of the new line. Make sure it fits securely over the pipe.
- Carefully heat the area around the tee fitting, including the pipe and the fitting itself, using a propane torch. Heat it evenly until both the pipe and fitting are hot enough for the solder to melt.
- When they’re hot enough, touch the solder to the joint. If it melts and flows into the joint, you’ve got the right temperature. Apply solder all around the joint, ensuring a complete seal. Capillary action will draw the solder into the joint.
- While the solder is still molten, use a clean cloth to wipe away any extra solder and flux from the joint. This leaves you with a clean and neat connection.
- Let the joint cool down naturally. Inspect it to make sure there are no gaps or leaks. If you spot any, you may need to reheat and add more solder.
- Turn the main water supply valve back on and open a faucet to let water flow through the new branch. Check for any leaks around the tee fitting and joint.
- Tidy up your work area, get rid of debris, and make sure there are no water leaks.
Compression Fittings
Compression fittings are made up of three main parts: a compression nut, a compression ring (or ferrule), and the fitting body. The compression nut typically looks like a hexagon.
Here’s how it works: You start by cutting the water supply line to make room for the compression fitting. Then, you slide the compression nut and ferrule onto the pipe. After that, you put the new water line into the fitting body and tighten the compression nut onto the fitting body. This squeezing action makes the ferrule grip the pipe tightly, creating a seal that keeps water from leaking.
These compression fittings are a trustworthy choice, kind of like a solid backup plan when you don’t want any leaks. They do involve cutting the pipe, but they make sure you won’t have to deal with the pesky leaks that can come with saddle valves.
Pros
- No soldering is required, making them accessible for DIYers.
- Reliable and durable.
- Available for various pipe materials.
Cons
- Requires cutting the pipe.
- Slightly bulkier than push-fit fittings.
How to Install
Materials and Tools You’ll Need
- Compression fitting
- Pipe cutter
- Emery cloth or sandpaper
- Adjustable wrench or pliers
- Tubing for the new water line
- Safety goggles
- Bucket or cloth for water cleanup
Steps
- Always protect your eyes with safety goggles while working.
- Locate the main water supply valve and turn it off to stop the water flow in the area where you’re working. Open a faucet to release any remaining pressure in the pipes.
- Measure the length of the existing water supply line where you want to put the compression fitting. Use a pipe cutter to make a clean, straight cut where you marked.
- Smooth out any rough edges from the cut ends of the pipe using emery cloth or sandpaper. This makes sure the surface is smooth for the compression fitting.
- Take apart the compression fitting. Separate the compression nut, compression ring (ferrule), and fitting body. Slide the compression nut and ferrule onto the pipe, with the narrow end of the ferrule facing the pipe’s cut end.
- Push the cut end of the pipe into the fitting body. Make sure it goes all the way in and seats properly.
- Twist the compression nut onto the fitting body by hand, then use an adjustable wrench or pliers to tighten it securely.
- Be careful not to over-tighten, as this can harm the ferrule and cause leaks.
- Inspect the assembly carefully to ensure the ferrule is tightly squeezed against the pipe and fitting body. Leave no gaps or spaces.
- Open the water valve slowly to let water go through the new connection. Watch for leaks, especially where the ferrule meets the pipe.
- After the water starts flowing, open a faucet on the new line to see if there are any leaks.
- If you find leaks, turn off the water, remove the fitting, and check the ferrule for damage or if it’s not lined up correctly. Put it back together and tighten it.
- Clean up your work area, eliminate any mess, and ensure there are no water leaks near the fitting.
Push-Fit Fittings
Push-fit fittings are made with a ring with teeth inside called a collet and O-rings to seal things up. They work by pushing the pipe in.
Putting one in is easy. Just push your new water line in until it clicks. The teeth hold the pipe, and the O-rings make sure there are no leaks.
These fittings are simple to install and don’t leak, which makes them better than saddle valves. You don’t need fancy tools or any soldering action to use them.
Pros
- Easy installation with no tools.
- Reliable and leak-resistant.
- Compatible with various pipe materials.
Cons
- Higher cost than some options.
- May not fit in very tight spaces.
How to Install
Materials and Tools You’ll Need
- Push-fit fittings
- Pipe cutter or hacksaw
- Emery cloth or sandpaper
- Tubing for the new water line
- Safety goggles
- Adjustable wrench or pliers (optional for removal)
Steps
- Always put on safety goggles to safeguard your eyes while working.
- Find the main water supply valve and shut it off to stop water flow in your working area. Open a faucet to release any remaining water pressure in the pipes.
- Measure the length of the existing water supply line where you want to add the push-fit fitting. Use a pipe cutter or hacksaw to make a clean, straight cut where you marked.
- Smooth out any rough edges from the cut ends of the pipe using emery cloth or sandpaper. This ensures a smooth surface for the push-fit fitting.
- Most push-fit fittings have a mark or indicator that shows how far the pipe should go. Mark this depth on the pipe.
- Apply a bit of water or water-based lubricant to the O-rings inside the push-fit fitting. This makes it easier for the pipe to slide in.
- Slide the cut end of the pipe into the push-fit fitting until it reaches the marked depth. It should go in smoothly and create a solid seal with the O-rings.
- Examine the setup to ensure the pipe is fully inserted to the marked depth and has made a strong seal with the O-rings inside the fitting. There shouldn’t be any gaps or spaces.
- Slowly open the main water supply valve to let water flow through the newly connected push-fit fitting. Keep an eye out for any leaks around the fitting.
- Turn on a faucet connected to the newly installed line and check for leaks once the water starts flowing.
- If you spot any leaks, turn off the water supply and confirm that the pipe is fully inserted to the marked depth inside the fitting. Recheck for leaks.
- Tidy up your workspace, clear away debris, and confirm there are no water leaks around the push-fit fitting.
Bottom Line
If you are wondering if these alternatives will function as well as a saddle valve, the answer is yes.
They not only work as a saddle valve but also provide greater durability for the water connections.
Also, these alternatives are very easy to install without requiring any prior plumbing experience, so any first-timer DIYer can resolve their water leakage problems.
So, next time you have a similar issue, instead of replacing your saddle valve, consider using one of these substitutes.
FAQ
What is the problem with saddle valves?
The most common problem with saddle valves is worn seals. The copper and plastic pipes tend to expand with changing water temperatures, which breaks the seal and causes water leakage.
Can a saddle valve be used on PVC pipe?
Yes. Saddle valves can be used on all sorts of pipes with IPS (Iron Pipe Size) outside diameters like PVC, CPVC, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, and Steel.
Why does my saddle valve keep turning?
The obvious reason your saddle valve is not stopping turning is the threads on the stem have been stripped. When the threads on the stem get damaged or worn out, it prevents the valve from securely closing or opening.