Chimneys are more than just an architectural element of your house. They play a pivotal role in keeping your house warm, cozy, and smoke-free.
Over time, the exposure to environmental elements can take its toll on the siding around your chimney, turning them weathered and worn.
If you are in the same boat, you must wonder how to replace chimney siding?
Don’t worry!
In this comprehensive guide, I have laid down all the steps, from removing your old chimney siding to finishing your new ones so that you can replace your chimney siding like a pro!
Replacing Wooden Chimney Siding: DIY Guide
Before I delve into the details, you should know that replacing wooden chimney siding requires almost a day’s work. So, make sure to have sufficient time in hand before you take on the project.
Steps | Estimated Time |
Step 1: Remove Old Siding | 3-5 hours |
Step 2: Measure & Cut New Siding Material | 1-2 hours |
Step 3: Install Flashing Around the Chimney Chase | 1-2 hours |
Step 4: Install New Siding | 4-6 hours |
Step 5: Install Outside Flashing at the Bottom | 2-3 hours |
Step 6: Seal the Joints | 1-2 hours |
Step 7: Paint or Stain | 4-6 hours |
Step 1: Remove Old Siding
- Look for nails or screws in the old wooden siding holding it in place. Remove them first.
- Examine the siding for any damaged or rotten spots. Be extra careful when removing siding from these areas.
- Begin at the top of the chimney and work your way down. This prevents debris from falling onto untouched sections.
- Remove nails or screws securing the siding to the chimney using the claw end of a hammer. Be gentle to avoid damage.
- If dealing with large pieces, try to remove them in smaller, more manageable parts. Gently use a crowbar to loosen the siding.
- If the siding is sealed with caulk or sealant, cut through it with a utility knife to make removal easier.
- Keep an eye out for hidden nails or fasteners under paint or caulk. Make sure you don’t miss any as you go.
- Keep repeating these steps as you work down the chimney until all the old siding is gone.
Required Tools
- Hammer
- Crowbar
- Utility knife
- Safety glasses and gloves
Step 2: Measure & Cut New Siding Material
- Put on safety glasses and gloves before you start cutting.
- Measure the height and width of where you’ll put the new siding; do it twice to be sure.
- Transfer those measurements to the new siding using a pencil or chalk.
- Use a circular saw to cut along the marks you made on the siding.
- After cutting, sand any rough spots or splinters on the edges.
- Hold the cut siding against the chimney to make sure it fits well. Adjust if needed.
- If you have more siding pieces to cut, follow the same steps for each one.
- If you have multiple pieces, label them to know where they go on the chimney.
Required Tools
- Circular saw
- Sandpaper
- Pencil or chalk
- Safety glasses and gloves
Step 3: Install Flashing Around the Chimney Chase
- Begin working at the bottom of the chimney chase (wooden frame), where it meets the roof. This is the most crucial spot to prevent water from getting in.
- Measure the width of the chimney chase, including the sides where the siding will go. Cut the flashing to match this width, leaving some extra for overlap.
- Carefully set the cut flashing around the chimney chase, making sure it’s centered and level. It should stick out a bit on both sides of the chimney chase.
- Use nails or screws to attach the flashing to the chimney chase. Start at one corner and work your way along, securing it firmly but not too tight to avoid damage.
- If you have more than one piece of flashing, make sure they overlap by a few inches. Seal the seam with roofing cement or sealant to prevent water from seeping through.
- Check the flashing to ensure it’s securely in place and sealed properly. Smooth out any extra sealant for a clean finish.
Required Tools
- Flashing material
- Roofing cement or sealant
- Caulking gun
- Screws or nails
- Level
- Screwdriver
- Safety glasses and gloves
Step 4: Install New Siding
- Begin at the bottom of the chimney. Line up the first piece of siding’s bottom edge with the chimney’s base or the flashing.
- Use a level to make sure the first piece is straight and level. If it’s not, adjust it until it is.
- Nail the first piece near the top edge. Make sure the nails go through the siding and into the chimney chase behind it.
- If you’ve got more siding pieces, let them overlap slightly, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Keep the spacing even with a spacer.
- Go on to the next piece, ensuring it overlaps the one below it. Check it with the level before nailing it in place.
- Keep moving up the chimney, one piece at a time. Nail each piece down securely and make sure it lines up.
- When you get to the corners or edges of the chimney, trim the siding to fit with a saw or utility knife.
- Step back from time to time and inspect your work. Make sure the siding looks straight, level, and firmly attached. Adjust if needed.
- Finally, trim the last piece of siding at the top of the chimney so it fits just right. Nail it down and check it’s level with the top edge. You’re good to go!
Required Tools
- Hammer
- Nails
- Level
- Spacer
- Saw or utility knife
- Safety glasses and gloves

Step 5: Install Outside Flashing at the Bottom
- Take a good look at the wooden siding you just put up. Make sure it’s nice, secure, and level.
- If you spot any wobbly bits, fix them up before you move on to the flashing.
- Measure the sides of the chimney that aren’t covered by the wooden siding and connecting to the roof. This is where you’re putting the flashing.
- Cut the flashing material to the size you need based on your measurements.
- Put a layer of roofing cement or sealant where the flashing will go. This is like a waterproof glue to keep the water out.
- Carefully lay the cut piece of flashing on top of the sealant. Make sure it sticks out a bit over the wooden siding and covers the roof area where the chimney is connected.
- It should sit nice and flat against the chimney.
- Secure it in place using screws or nails. Start at one corner and work your way along. Don’t over-tighten, though – you don’t want to damage the flashing.
- To ensure no water sneaks in, use a caulking gun to put a bead of sealant or roofing cement along the edges where the flashing meets the chimney and the wooden siding.
- Make sure the flashing is on there solid and sealed up right. Look for any gaps or spots that need more sealant.
- Finally, tidy up by getting rid of waste materials properly and cleaning your workspace. Safety first!
Required Tools
- Flashing material
- Roofing cement or sealant
- Caulking gun
- Screws or nails
- Level
- Screwdriver
- Safety glasses and gloves
Step 6: Seal the Joints
- Take a close look at the joints between the siding pieces. Look for any gaps or spots where water could sneak in.
- Get an acrylic latex caulk tube into the caulking gun and snip the tip at a 45-degree angle to make a small opening.
- Starting at one end of the chimney, squeeze out a line of caulk along the joint between the siding pieces. Make sure you fill in any gaps completely.
- Smooth it out with a putty knife. You want it to be nice and even, creating a tidy and waterproof seal.
- Keep a clean rag or cloth handy to wipe away any extra caulk right away. This keeps things looking neat and ensures the caulk sticks well.
- Move along the chimney, doing the same thing for each joint between the siding pieces. Don’t leave any gaps unsealed.
- Pay extra attention to the corners and where the siding pieces overlap. Be generous with the caulk to make sure these critical areas are sealed up tight.
- Step back and check your work after sealing all the joints. Make sure you didn’t miss any gaps or end up with wonky caulk lines.
- Now, be patient and let the caulk dry completely. Check the instructions on the caulk tube for the drying time; it’s usually a few hours to overnight.
- When you’re all done, dispose of the used caulk tubes and cleaning stuff properly.
Required Tools
- Caulking gun
- Putty knife
- Clean rag or cloth
- Acrylic latex caulk
- Safety glasses and gloves
Step 7: Paint or Stain
- Make sure the wooden siding is clean and free of dust or debris. Use a cloth or soft brush to remove any loose stuff.
- Stir the paint well or shake the wood stain. Follow the label for prep instructions.
- Before going all in, test a small, hidden spot to check if you like the color and finish.
- Begin at the top and work your way down. Use long, even strokes with a paintbrush, and feather the edges.
- Make sure you coat all parts of the siding, even edges, corners, and seams.
- Depending on your paint or stain for the siding, you might need multiple coats. Let each one dry completely before adding the next.
- Dispose of used paint cans properly and clean your tools following the label instructions.
- After it dries, check your work. Touch up any spots that need it.
- Consider adding a clear sealant to keep your paint or stain looking good and protected from UV and moisture.
Required Tools
- Paintbrush or paint sprayer
- Paint tray
- Paint rollers (if applicable)
- Paint stir sticks
- Drop cloths
- Clean-up material
- Paint or wood stain
- Safety glasses and gloves

Why Do You Need to Replace Chimney Siding?
Chimneys add character and warmth to a home, but over time, their siding can wear down, and that’s when it’s time to consider replacing it.
Damaged or Rotten Siding
One of the most common reasons to replace chimney siding is damage. Whether it’s due to harsh weather, moisture seepage, or just the wear and tear of time, siding can deteriorate.
When you notice cracks, rotting wood, or loose sections, it’s a clear sign that replacement is in order. Neglecting these issues can lead to more extensive and costly repairs down the road.
Safety
Safety should always be a top concern for homeowners. Damaged or deteriorating chimney siding can compromise the chimney’s structural integrity.
This poses a risk not only to the chimney but potentially to your entire home. Replacing siding that’s in poor condition ensures that your chimney remains stable and secure.
Aesthetics
Your home’s appearance matters. Cracked, faded, or peeling siding can significantly detract from your home’s curb appeal.
By replacing worn siding, you not only enhance the overall look of your property but also increase its resale value. It’s a win-win situation in terms of aesthetics and property value.
New Building Codes
Building codes and regulations evolve over time to improve safety and efficiency. If you’re considering a chimney siding replacement, it’s an opportunity to bring your home up to date with the latest building codes.
This ensures compliance and contributes to a safer and more energy-efficient living environment.
What Materials Can be Used as Replacement Chimney Siding?
Before you start replacing chimney siding, it’s essential to understand the advantages and disadvantages of each material to make an informed decision that aligns with your specific needs and preferences.
Brick
Brick keeps fires at bay by preventing flames from sneaking into your home’s walls.
Yet, the mortar in brick siding can become brittle over time, posing a threat to your chimney and home structure.
Masonry repairs might be needed, with costs varying from $160 to $1,800 or more, depending on the extent of the damage.
Fiber Cement
Fiber cement siding, crafted from cement, sand, and wood fibers, stands as a steadfast, fire-resistant choice.
It holds a Class 1A fire rating, which means it can endure intense heat, granting emergency services more time to respond to fires.
However, it comes with a steeper price tag. Materials range from $0.70 to $10 per square foot, and labor tacks on an additional $2 to $8 per square foot.
Metal Sheeting
Steel and aluminum siding are recognized for their resilience against environmental forces and their fire-resistant properties.
They don’t ignite, making them a solid choice for protecting your home from potential fire damage.
While some options won’t break the bank at $1 to $3 per square foot, more robust metal siding can ring in at around $35 per square foot.
Stone Veneer
Stone veneer, with its lightweight, non-combustible, and non-flammable nature, shines as an excellent choice for chimneys.
It doesn’t require floor reinforcement and can endure various weather conditions.
Though it adds a touch of sophistication to your chimney, it’s wise to opt for professional installation.
Costs typically range from $11 to $18 per square foot, plus labor at $2 to $4 per square foot.
Stucco
Both traditional and synthetic stucco deliver impressive fire resistance when applied to structures built with fire-resistant materials.
Stucco has earned a one-hour fire rating, offering a shield against fire heat for an hour before flames penetrate interior walls.
Stucco is paintable so that you can match your chimney’s siding with the exterior of your house as well.
It’s a relatively budget-friendly option, ranging from $7 to $9 per square foot, with labor costs of $1 to $3 per square foot. Repairs may cost between $600 and $2,500 on average.

Bottom Line
Replacing chimney siding enhances your house’s aesthetic appeal and keeps you safe from potential fire hazards.
It may sound like a tough job, but as long as you are maintaining all the safety precautions, you should be able to manage to take on this DIY home improvement project on your own.
If you are planning to install a different material, consider the weather conditions of your living area as well as the expenses.
Happy DIYing!
FAQ
What kind of siding do you use on a chimney?
You can use engineered wood, masonry (brick or stone), and concrete fiber products (Hardie siding) as chimney siding. There are also metal options like steel and aluminum sheets.
Can wood siding be replaced?
Yes. This guide describes the step-by-step process for replacing wood siding. With proper maintenance, wood sidings can serve your chimney for 20-30 years.
What is chimney cladding?
Chimney cladding refers to installing an additional layer of material on a pre-existing surface as a protective layer.